Monday, October 25, 2010

{bishop placket}

Things have finally slowed down enough for me to attempt catching up on a few things! This week I plan to complete the Smocked Bishop Tutorial! Rather than a video tutorial, I am going to do still shots for finishing up this lesson series. I think at this point it's easier for you to see close up images, rather than watching a video. In the future, I will make these last tutorials into a pdf format, so that you can print off my instructions.
If you are new to my blog, you can catch up on my Smocked Bishop Tutorial by starting here.
To make it easier for you who are using the Children's Corner Bishop pattern, I am going to follow their exact instructions, which I hope will make pattern printed instructions a little clearer to understand for those who are new to making a smocked bishop dress.
Bishop Placket Instructions
I cut the pattern out using the selvage edge - I don't always do this, because I usually like to have a prettier edge on the inside of the garment, than what you see here, but to follow the instructions on the pattern, I cut it on the selvage edge, as shown. 
Step 1: With right sides together, pin center back seam from marked dot to bottom of dress.
 Step 2: Stitch a 1" seam from marked dot to bottom of dress.
 Step 3: Press seam open
 Step 4: Clip fabric on right side to marked dot
 Step 5: Turn under 1/2" of lap and press
 Step 5: Whip stitch selvage edge from marked dot up to neck edge
Step 6: Lap will extend 1/2" to left side - whip-stitch lapped edge to left side
 Step 7: Finished whip-stitched placket should look like this
Step 7: Press under on the right side of opening as shown
 Step 7: Once overlapped, your finished placket should look like this!
My next blog post will be attaching the bias neck edge. I hope you enjoyed the bishop placket instructions. If you have any questions, please feel free to leave me a comment.


dlogan said...

I love the ease of this method vs. a bound placket, which makes me sweat! Beautifully done. Darby

Anonymous said...

If you choose not to use the selvedge edge,what other finish do you normally use? Thank you for doing this series, I find it very helpful.


Laurie said...

If I didn't use the selvaged edge, I would finish off by running the cut edges thru my serger. or do a rolled and whipped edge.

Personalized Sketches and Sentiments said...

I have your wonderful tutorial posts that I can go back to day!

Blessings & Aloha!
(Thank you dear friend for stopping by...God is so good! Now that my dad's surgery is done, I look forward to going up to help him when he is back home and recovering....Georgia seems so much farther from Wisconsin...during times like this.)

Julia said...

This has been so helpful to me. Thanks! The Christening gown that I just posted about is going out to middle TN, not far from you. Thanks for dropping by.

Rettabug said...

Talk about catching up...I had no idea you were doing this tut!!! I'll have to start running, real fast.
I have missed TONS of your posts lately. I'm so sorry, too. I will spend the next hour trying to catch up.

Thanks for all the wonderful lessons you give us, Laurie.

Hope baby Caleb & Mommy are doing well.

Keri C. said...

Laurie- I found you by searching Youtube for a bishop tutorial. I have been doing some sewing since my daughter was born and am enjoying it sooo much! I would like to learn to make bishops for her and to smock some other things, so I watched all your videos and came to your site to see the finished product! I love it!! I am wondering.... when you finish the last stitch of embroidery, do you remove the black pleating stitches or are those left in...? Is there any sort of stitch that goes on the underside of the smocking to reinforce the pleats? I tried watching your smocking tutorials, but I still didn't find the answer to this... maybe I missed something! : ) -Keri (Winter Park, FL)

Laurie said...

Keri C, I don't have any other way of contacting you, except for on here, so I will answer your questions here. When the smocked stitches are completed, you remove all the pleating threads except for the holding row - which is the row above the 1st actual row of smocking. I like to also leave in that 1st row of holding threads tho too until my neck band is stitched on. On this bishop dress there was no need to do "backsmocking", which is what is usually done on something that is picture-smocked. You can look up both those terms "back smocking" and "Picture smocking" on my blog and read posts about both of those. If you have any other questions, let me know!

monarte said...

First I would like to say, thank you for your blog. I know how hard it is to keep up with one. I'm not writing on mine because I have a Newborn Grand Daughter. Which is why I found yours. I was looking for some info on doing the shell stitch on a slip for a new FH sewn dress I was making her and wanted to renew myself how to do it correctly, because it had been awhile since I had used it. Thanks again for your expert tutorial. I then read your latest on the bishop placket (a bishop bubble is my next project) I use the same method you show in your post for a placket. I would just like to add that I also sometimes do a special step, where I turn under the right side once more so, when you overlap the placket the smocking comes together, (this leaves a pleat at the bottom of the placket which is unnoticeable when you tack it closed). Then when the packet is finished the smocking looks as if comes together in one complete circle on a Bishop. You can close the placket with one loop button at the top, and clear snaps on the inside where they can't be seen or button holes hidden or not, but my favorite is with beauty bars. I hope this is an interesting fact that you and your readers will enjoy.

Grammies Page said...

Hi Laurie,

I was watching your youtube lessons and you said you would post a blocking pattern to your site, I can't find it and I need one :) please direct me to where you have it, thanks. :)
I'll check tomorrow if you have answer me. thanks :) <><

Laurie said...

blocking guide is here -

Grammies Page said...

Thanks you Laurie, have a great day :)

Susan Shake said...

Your tutorials have been SO helpful to me....trying to get back into smocking after raising my boys. I smocked for them 20+ years ago, and I would have really loved the help you give in these segments! :)

I have just finished smocking a bishop dress. It looks to me like the placket you show on the tutorial is backwards. Shouldn't the (looking at it) left side overlap the right side on a girl's dress? Does it matter? I am on a deadline to finish the dress for a wedding the flower girl will wear, so your comment is appreciated!

Susan S. said...

Laurie-Is this placket wide enough to do buttonholes? Most of my dresses have snaps on them, but was looking for a placket for buttons. Thamks! My website is great!

Mosaic Magpie said...

Thank you for the time and effort it has taken to create these video and blog post tutorials. I am new to smocking and have just created my first bonnet. I am beginning a bishop dress and have watched your videos several times. I am certain over the next coming days I will need to have a look again! If you get a chance come over for a visit to see my bonnet.

Anonymous said...

Would you please add a close-up photo of the back of the bishop so we can all see how you finish the buttons, buttonholes, snaps, etc. Thank you very much.

Missy Stephens said...

Thanks for all the tips! I rely on youtube since there are no smocking classes in my area. I appreciate the blog on plackets but would really like a video too! Thanks in advance.

Izzy's Owner! said...

You've saved my life more than once with your Tutorial! It's been a while since I smocked for my daughter, now it's time to smock for my Grand-daughter. Personally I think the patterns for smocking are great for the preparing for smocking part but the sewing part leaves a little to be desired. Your tutorial walked me right through it....yet again! Thank you so much for posting. It's in my "Save bookmark" part now and I will use it on the next dress! My daughter very nicely pointed out that Isla only had ONE dress that was fitting properly....time to sew! :) Loving being a Grammy!


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