I had a piece of Swiss Cotton Edging in my sewing stash, so I pleated it up for a bishop collar to use in this tutorial. This piece of edging is 6" wide by about 2.5 yards. I pleated it up with 7 rows - the top row is my holding row. I will be making this bishop smocked collar up as a ready-to-smock item, meaning that I will not do any smocking stitches until the collar construction is complete. As you can tell, I use white quite a bit when smocking and I know it makes it really
I blocked the bishop collar on my blocking board and steamed it with my iron, then I pulled out a few pleats on either side of my collar, so that I could finish the edge. Using my serger, I stitched a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch to finish off the cut edge.
I turned under the serged edge, then turned it under again and top stitched each side of the back openings for the collar.
Next step was to take it to my sewing machine and stitch a basting stitch just above the first row that will be smocked.
I then finger pressed the center of my bias neck binding piece and matched up the center of it to the center of my pleated collar. I pinned the neck binding in place, overlapping the ends by about 1/4". On my sewing machine, I stitched the bias neck binding down with a basting stitch first, then checked how it looked, and made any adjustments that needed to be done before I did my final stitching down of the bias neck binding.
Once the neck binding was stitched down, I took the collar to my serger and with a 3-thread narrow overlock stitch, I stitched and finished off the neck binding all in one easy step!
Using the marks on my serger foot, I watched closely to where the needle was stitching and made sure that the needle followed close to my straight stitch that I had sewn on my sewing machine. Nothing scary about that!As you can see, this gave me a nice cut off and finished edge to the top of the neck. Nothing to cringe or gasp about there, right? See how easy that was? Once again, don't be afraid to use your serger - I'm certainly not!
Next step is to turn under the overlapped edge to the inside, then turn under the top of the binding and fold it over the serged finished edge of the neck. Pin in place and whipstitch the binding in place.
Once complete you should have a beautifully attached bias neck binding as shown here.
I hope you found this 2nd tutorial on a bias neck binding beneficial, but most of all I hope that I have relieved any fears you might have in using your serger in heirloom sewing, and especially in attaching a bias neck binding.
As always, I welcome your comments and questions. You can also contact me by email from the Contact tab at the top of my blog.