Friday, August 11, 2017

Serger Puffing - YES, you can!

My blog has been super neglected and after getting into a discussion with two of my good sewing friends this week about how each of us does puffing, I decided to make up a little tutorial with how I do mine. 
Serger Puffing - YES, you can!
I am always looking for a way to do things easier and to save time in the sewing studio. I also like to put my serger to good use with heirloom sewing techniques, especially when it saves time and no one can tell you even used a serger!

My tutorial shows how I do puffing strips the easy way!
Step1: Tear fabric to 3" strips (or whatever size you want your puffing strip - starch and press.
Step 2: Set your serger to do a gathering stitch - on my Babylock Evolve, my settings are as follows: 
Stitch Selector: A
Needles: 0-1, 0-2
Length: 4
Width: M-7.5
Differential Feed: 2
Blade: Unlocked
Speed: Moderate
Serge both long sides of the strip of fabric.
Step 3: There are 2 rows of gathering threads on top that you want to locate
Begin pulling the 2 gathering threads to gather up the puffing strip to the amount of gathering you want
Step 4: Adding Entredeux: Pin entredeux so that the right side of the beading falls within the 2 rows of gathering stitches on the strip. Pin in place

Step 5: Set Sewing Machine to straight stitch and stitch right up close to the beading of the entredeux

Repeat step 5 for other side of strip

Step 5: Trim away raw edges of fabric and entredeux up close to straight stitching

Step 6: Set Sewing Machine to a zig zag stitch W:3, L:1.7 Needle at 5th dot from left

Step 7: Stitch catching ever other hole on the entredeux - the raw edge should roll encasing the straight stitching

Step 8: Press seam away from entredeux 

Step 9: I made a slight adjustment in stitch width to 2.5 and kept all the same settings as previously stitched

Step 10: Zig zag catching every other hole - seam on the underside will be caught in this stitching

Step 11: Strip should look like this when completed. (Note: I used white thread with ecru entredeux - you should use the same color thread as the entredeux)

This is a photo of the underside of the strip
This is a photo of the top side of the strip
This is a photo of the finished strip ready to be
added to the garment
I know there are a lot of purists out there and hand-gathering and hand whip-stitching can't ever be replicated by machine. However, if you want to save time, this method is the way to go! Happy Stitching! ...and I hope you find this tutorial helpful!


ShirleyC said...

That's good to know!
I have an older Imagine, and I could get it to gather, but not with the gathering foot which allows you to gather and sew onto the fabric at the same time - as you know.
I had been in classes with it with a BL instructor that is "supposed" to know these things, and still no results. (Not Missy)
Then a few weeks ago, I was watching one of Missy Billingsley's videos she posted in her group about serger gathering. She explained how to get more gathers by lifting the flat bar on the bottom of the foot. I tried that, and it was a miracle!
I had wanted to use that feature when making doll clothes for Shelby to save time. It's just good to know it's not my serger!

janie said...

Thank you!


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